18-Day Albania Itinerary Without a Car: My 2026 Backpacking Route

Albania was my last stop as I made my way down the Balkans, the summer I was fleeing overcrowded, overpriced Western Europe. I knew almost nothing going in, my only real reference point of the country was Dua Lipa. What I found was one of my favourite stretches of my entire summer: unpolished authenticity and striking beauty from the Alps to the crystal-blue coastline.

Planning an Albania itinerary without a car, though, is another story. Lots of advice defaults to renting a car, which as a solo female traveller is not my preferred option. Here’s the catch: research beforehand won’t give you a good idea of Albania’s public transport, since a lot of it simply isn’t online. If you go looking in advance, you’ll come away thinking it’s not possible without a car. But it is, and here is how I did it.

Can You Really Travel Albania Without a Car?

Yes, but not in the same way you may be used to.

Think of Albania as your old-school relative who refuses to use the internet. Booking shared transportation won’t be like going online to 12Go in Asia, or FlixBus in other parts of Europe. Some of it is online, but most of it is not, and some you don’t book at all. 

First, your hostels and accommodations will be your best resources. They know the transportation schedules for the exact season you’re there, where the buses pick up, and fare. You probably won’t be able to find many of these schedules online, but you can be confident there’s some form of bus running between most top destinations in Albania in the summer. And there’s usually no need to book in advance.

There’s also a website, Gjirafa Travel, that can help with some routes, though it may not always have the best and most direct options. I’d recommend always asking your accommodation first for your options.

Between the two, you’ll have everything you need to string your route together, no rental car required.

My 18-Day Route at a Glance

Days 1 – 5: Shkodër & the Valbona to Theth Hike

I crossed into Albania from Ulcinj, Montenegro, where my hostel, Pirates Backpackers, organized a daily shuttle to Shkodër. It was about a 2-hour journey, including the border crossing, and cost about 10 euros.

Shkodër immediately felt different from anywhere else I’d been in Europe, a little unpolished, with food stalls and clothing markets spilling into the streets, all wrapped around a beautiful cobblestoned old town. Most people come to Shkodër only as a means to get to the Valbona to Theth hike, which is one of the reasons I went too. But Shkodër is worth lingering in on its own, so budget a few extra days on either side of the hike to enjoy the city properly.

Read my Valbona to Theth Hike for Beginners Guide: Everything I Wish I’d Known Before Going

(Guide to the best hostels in Shkodër, coming soon)

Days 6 – 8: Tiranë

From Shkodër, my hostel (The Wanderers Hostel), organized a minibus to Tiranë, about a 2 hour ride and cost about 15 euros. It’s the most popular hostel in Shkodër, so they’re well equipped to help travellers get to their next destination.

I’d planned Tiranë as a reset stop, somewhere to relax and do laundry after the hike, so I booked an apartment for a few days that turned out to be fabulous (linked here): great location, a kitchen, a laundry machine, and very affordable. The woman managing it was so kind, she even gave me a gift when I left (cry).

But I ended up absolutely loving this city. It’s so cool, with many interesting neighbourhoods and a great food scene. I highly recommend booking a walking tour. It took me all around the city, showing me areas I never would have found alone, and gave me a real sense of how deep Albania’s history runs, right down to the bunkers still scattered throughout. Definitely worth staying a few days here to explore.

Days 9 – 15: Himarë

After mountains and a little bit of city, it was time for the beach. I booked a shuttle from Tiranë to Himarë via Gjirafa Travel’s online booking site. It was a direct 3-hour bus and cost 15 euros. The online ticket links to the exact pickup spot on Google Maps, so it was easy to know where to catch it. I used the InDrive app to get to the bus terminal in Tiranë. Arrive early, but also expect Albanian time. My bus left well past its scheduled departure, so I killed time at a nearby cafe. Schedules here are more of a suggestion, so never be in too much of a rush to get anywhere.

When people debate Albania’s best beach town, it’s usually Sarandë vs. Ksamil. But if you’re a backpacker, you know it’s actually Himarë winning the battle. Himarë is a small, quaint town on the Ionian Sea surrounded by clear blue water. It has enough restaurants, nightlife and good hostels to stay interesting, minus the size and chaos of its neighbours.

I stayed at Trip’n’Hostel Seaside, which I highly recommend. It’s comfortable, has incredible views, and a great social vibe.

I ended up staying a full week, mainly beach-reading, boat-partying and group-dining with lots of Greek salad and seafood. My last few days I decided to camp oceanfront at The Sea Cave Camping, which I booked easily through Booking.com, and it turned into one of my favourite experiences of the whole summer.

(My guide on the easiest way to camp in Himarë, no gear required: coming soon)

Days 16 – 18: Sarandë

My last two nights in Albania were spent in Sarandë, mainly to catch a ferry to Corfu, but also to see what the hype was about.

For transportation information, Trip’n’Hostel Seaside is a great resource. They have the local bus times and tell you exactly where to catch them. I used one of these local buses and it took about 1.5 hours and cost around 7 euros.

Since I was camping at the end of my time in Himarë, I asked my campsite reception for the nearest bus pickup spot, then texted a driver whose WhatsApp I’d saved from earlier in the trip to take me there. When we arrived at the spot, he somehow had the bus driver’s number and personally called him to confirm it was correct. It just shows you that yes, there is no rigid system here, but locals are genuinely willing to help, and you WILL get where you need to go. You just have to trust the process, and maybe a few elderly Albanian men along the way.

Again, nothing booked ahead. I just got on when the bus rolled up, the driver with one hand on the wheel, puffing a cigarette in the other. Someone onboard comes around eventually to collect your fare.

Sarandë wasn’t a highlight for me. It’s bigger than I expected, and the beaches didn’t compare to Himarë. Most people come for the nightlife since there are more big clubs here, but after a week in Himarë it didn’t hold my interest. If you’re going for the beach, make it Himarë.

Why This Route Works So Well for Backpackers

An Affordable Euro Summer

If you want a Euro summer without breaking the bank, the Balkans are honestly one of the only answers left, and Albania is one of the best options among them. It has everything you’d want in a Euro summer: Alps and hiking trails with crystal-clear mountain springs, stunning beaches, UNESCO old towns, a growing wine region, deep history, and a good party scene. It just hasn’t hit Greece-level prices yet, but it’s clearly heading that way. Hostels, food, and transportation all cost a fraction of their Western European counterparts. I found hostels running 50 to 60% cheaper than what I was paying in Western Europe. So go now, while it still feels like a secret.

A Well-Worn Backpacker Trail

One of the main reasons I left Western Europe that summer was because I was in dire need to be back around a backpacking community. By the time I got to Spain it was July, and I was mostly surrounded by families on vacation. So, Albania gave me exactly what I was missing. Most of the people traveling through Albania are backpackers, plus locals from elsewhere in the Balkans, so the energy there was exactly what I was looking for.

Albania makes it easy to build a community while you’re there. I kept running into the same people, from the summit of a mountain in Valbona down at a beach in Himarë. It’s a common enough route that you naturally cross paths again and again, and I made some great friends there because of it. It’s a different feel from Italy, Greece, or Spain, where you get every kind of traveller mixed together. Albania is mostly locals and backpackers, and that’s exactly the kind of place I want to be in.

What I’d Change If I Did This Again

I had to cut some destinations from my Albania trip because of (1) time, and (2) wildfires happening at the time. But knowing now that I could confidently get around without a car, there’s more I would’ve liked to see.

Berat is at the top of the list. Known as the “City of a Thousand Windows” for the rows of Ottoman-era houses stacked up its hillside, it’s one of Albania’s UNESCO towns and also sits in the middle of the country’s wine region, which feels like exactly my kind of stop.

I also would have loved to see Gjirokastër, another UNESCO old town not far from Sarandë, known for its steep cobblestone streets and a massive hilltop fortress looking down over the whole city.

Though I did really love my itinerary. It had adventure, history and lots of down time by the beach. If that is what you are after, I’d recommend it, and you can be confident you can easily get between these places without a car.

FAQs

Final Verdict: Albania Itinerary Without a Car

Doable? Absolutely. If not wanting to rent a car is the only thing that’s been holding you back, don’t let it. Yes, getting from A to B here is less polished than most of Europe, but that’s exactly what makes it so special. It’s what makes the country feel authentic and adventurous, and what leads to the funny, chaotic, unforgettable travel moments I live for. These are the kinds of places I love experiencing most.

Go now, before it gets busier and more expensive.

Looking for another stop on your Balkans trip? Read 8 Reasons Why Bosnia Is One of My Favourite Countries in Europe